Did you know there’s a whole world of luxury watches hiding in plain sight, far from the glitz of Geneva’s cobblestone streets? It’s a horological revolution you’ve likely never heard of. Over the past two decades, while the global watch market has soared, a quieter movement has been brewing—one that’s redefining what it means to wear a timepiece. Enter the new-gen microbrands: small, ambitious creators crafting mechanical watches that blend creativity, accessibility, and a dash of rebellion. But here’s where it gets controversial: are these indie brands a threat to Swiss tradition, or a celebration of its roots? Let’s dive in.
Andrew McUtchen, the Australian watch journalist behind Time+Tide, has been at the forefront of this trend since 2014. His digital platform, dedicated to all things watches, even featured a column called Micro Mondays, spotlighting these underdog brands. “The response was electric,” McUtchen recalls. “People were hungry to discover these hidden gems. We even helped some launch their Kickstarter campaigns.” Fast forward a decade, and McUtchen isn’t just writing about these brands—he’s championing them through Time+Tide Discovery Studios in Melbourne, London, and now New York. These physical spaces invite enthusiasts to explore around thirty microbrands up close and personal.
“It’s a sanctuary for watch lovers,” McUtchen explains. “A place where you can talk watches, try them on, and connect with like-minded people—without someone rolling their eyes at your enthusiasm.” While online shopping is convenient, he adds, “nothing beats the feeling of a watch touching your wrist for the first time.” And this is the part most people miss: this movement isn’t about rejecting Swiss tradition. Instead, it’s a reminder of what made watches captivating in the first place—creativity, community, and a touch of courage.
To help you navigate this exciting landscape, here are six microbrands McUtchen believes deserve your attention, along with their standout timepieces:
1. Studio Underd0g
Watermelon Chronograph, £550
Imagine pop art colliding with precision engineering, sprinkled with Bauhaus discipline. That’s Studio Underd0g. “They’ve achieved something rare for a newcomer—instant recognizability,” McUtchen notes. Founded by a British designer with a background at Braun, their Watermelon Chronograph is a bold, unapologetically loud icon that demands attention.
2. Christopher Ward
C1 Bel Canto, £3,530; C12 Loco, £3,795
“Christopher Ward doesn’t rely on lifestyle or lineage—it’s all about substance,” McUtchen says. But with the launch of the chiming C1 Bel Canto and the sleek C12 Loco, they’re proving style matters too. These watches feel solid, with finishing and tactility that scream quality. The Bel Canto, a mechanical marvel with a chiming complication, is their breakout star.
3. Serica
5303 Dive Watch, £1,585
French minimalism meets vintage charm in Serica’s designs. “They’ve distilled military aesthetics into something beautifully modern,” McUtchen explains. The 5303 Dive Watch is his pick, with its bezel action so smooth and tactile, it’s almost sensual. And here’s the bold part: there’s no logo on the dial—because it doesn’t need one.
4. Dennison
Time+Tide x Dennison Date Night, £745
A British name reborn in Geneva, Dennison is now helmed by design royalty—Emmanuel Gueit, the mind behind Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Offshore. Their dials are made from exotic materials like tiger’s eye and mother-of-pearl, creating striking, elegant pieces. The Time+Tide Dennison Date Night features an Australian mother-of-pearl dial that catches light like a seductive glance.
5. Furlan Marri
Time+Tide Outback Elegy, £1,660
Geneva’s Furlan Marri is all about mid-century restraint and precision. “Every detail is meticulously considered,” McUtchen says. Their Cornes de Vache cases, inspired by cow horns, feel like bespoke tailoring. The Time+Tide Outback Elegy edition pairs earthy tones with oxblood and rose gold—a perfect blend of Swiss refinement and antipodean flair.
6. Baltic
MR Roulette Silver, from £480
Baltic, the Parisian polymath, masters every genre—dress, dive, driving—while maintaining a cohesive identity. “Their attention to detail is obsessive,” McUtchen notes. The MR Series, powered by a micro-rotor calibre, allows a clear view of the movement through the case back—a feature once reserved for haute horlogerie.
Ready to explore this hidden world? Visit Time+Tide Discovery Studio at 1st Floor West, Portland House, 4 Great Portland Street, or check out timeandtidewatches.com. But before you go, here’s a thought-provoking question: Are these microbrands the future of watchmaking, or just a passing trend? Let us know in the comments—we’d love to hear your take!
