The pinnacle of English craftsmanship in high jewellery
While Paris is often associated with the traditional heart of high jewellery, Britain's craftsmanship is thriving, with a range of brands creating exceptional, one-of-a-kind pieces from their workshops. The key to this success lies in family-run businesses that can control and integrate production locally, as seen with Pragnell, Graff, and David Morris.
Charlie Pragnell, managing director of Pragnell, highlights the company's 170-year legacy of craftsmanship, dating back to the 19th century. With over a dozen skilled craftspeople, Pragnell ensures the transfer of expertise to young apprentices through mentoring and training. Traditional techniques like casting gold, setting gemstones, and polishing coexist with modern tools such as computer-aided design (CAD) and laser engraving.
Pragnell's Masterpiece collection showcases their high jewellery, featuring vintage pieces from the Georgian era to the 1980s, as well as fine jewellery collections like charms, engagement rings, and chains. The Masterpiece designs, however, are a unique offering, inspired by the highest quality stones and a focus on design flair. These pieces are crafted in the UK, with each one being a singular creation.
One recent masterpiece is a 40-carat fancy-coloured diamond bracelet, a five-year project from sourcing the stones to the final polish. Pragnell emphasizes the importance of symmetry in an otherwise asymmetric piece, with each diamond setting constructed with multiple joints for fluidity and movement when worn.
Pragnell's commitment to transparency is notable, as they disclose that 80% of their jewellery is made in British workshops, a rare practice in the industry. This decision to disclose the country of manufacture is a testament to their pride in British craftsmanship.
The company's Handmade English Chain, produced in a rounded plait-style by a single craftswoman, is an example of Pragnell's dedication to quality. Italy is the preferred location for gold chain production, but Pragnell's handmade chain is a unique, hand-finished creation.
Graff, another renowned brand, shares Pragnell's emphasis on craftsmanship with lineage. Located in Mayfair, their workshops employ over 50 craftspeople, many with decades of dedication to the family brand. Each year, several hundred high jewellery pieces are crafted, including an exceptional necklace featuring a 55-carat oval blue sapphire, with a price tag available upon request.
Sam Sherry, the workshop's general manager, describes the process as an extraordinary collaboration between designers, artisans, diamond mounters, setters, CAD technicians, goldsmiths, and polishers. Old and new practices coexist, with sculptural techniques ensuring the sapphire's comfort and 3D scans planning the placement of each stone.
David Morris, situated nearby on Old Bond Street, also values close collaborations. CEO and creative director Jeremy Morris emphasizes the constant back-and-forth between his office and workshop, where a team of 12 craftsmen works on various pieces. Recent additions of work experience students and training programmes ensure the preservation of age-old techniques and modern advancements.
A blue and pink diamond ring, crafted over six months, showcases the blend of old and new. The frame was produced using CAD, while the central collets were crafted by hand to ensure perfect balance. Morris highlights the collaborative nature of the team as the key to producing some of the world's best jewellery.
In conclusion, Britain's high jewellery industry thrives through family-run businesses, local production, and a blend of traditional and modern techniques. The result is exceptional craftsmanship that rivals any other jewellery hub, with brands like Pragnell, Graff, and David Morris leading the way.
